Minox 35 EL vs. GT vs. ML vs. GT-E - the Ultimate Guide

Anyone who knows me knows that the Minox 35 is one of my absolute favorite cameras. We at Ausgeknipst design parts for dozens of camera systems. But if I'm honest, there's one camera that I always slip into my pocket when I'm out and about. It's not a Leica and it's not a Nikon. It's my beat-up Minox 35 GT (on the right in the picture).

Why? Because it's engineering in a pocket format. In 1974, Minox (previously known for spy cameras) shocked the photography world with it: A full-frame 35mm camera that was smaller than many half-frame cameras and even smaller than the then very popular Rollei 35. The great thing about the Minox 35 compared to the more popular Rollei 35 is: the lens disappears behind a flap when the camera is not in use and is therefore protected in the bag, and because the housing is made of fiberglass-reinforced Makrolon, it weighs almost nothing.

But: The Minox 35 could only be so small because it contains a lot of electronics for the time, and that unfortunately makes it quite prone to failure. Of the 100+ Minox 35s that have passed through my hands since Ausgeknipst was founded, probably about 50% were broken (we were fortunately able to repair about 30% of the broken ones, as usually only the shutter magnet needs to be cleaned, see this Youtube Video.

But that comes later, first you have to decide on one and that's what this guide is for - so you can find the right model and keep it alive.

Part 1: The Minox Family Tree (Which one should I buy?)

There are countless variants, but we can roughly divide them into three families. Here is the overview to help you see through the jungle of names.

1. The Classics (EL, GL, GT, PL)

These are the models with the typical sloping housing at the top and the needle in the viewfinder.

Minox 35 EL (1974): The original mother. Aperture priority (you choose the aperture, camera chooses the time). Historically important, but technically still raw (no backlight switch, no self-timer).

Minox 35 GL (1979): The update. Got a backlight switch ("2x") that doubles the exposure. Important feature!

Minox 35 GT (1981): The bestseller and my personal favorite. Has everything the GL has, plus a self-timer. The lens is the legendary Color-Minotar 35mm f/2.8. Sharp, high-contrast, full of character.

Minox 35 PL (1982): The "Program" version. Fully automatic for people who don't want to think about apertures. Good for snapshots, but less creative control.

Attention regarding power supply: These models originally ran on the PX27 mercury battery (5.6V). It is no longer available.

The solution: Fortunately, the Minox 35 has an integrated voltage regulator. This means that the modern 6V from four LR44 or SR44 button cells are not a problem electrically. The essential thing is the battery adapter (sleeve). The button cells are too small and would not make contact without an adapter and would cause a short circuit. Our PX27 Adapter takes the modern button cells, connects them correctly and ensures that your Minox gets reliable power again. Alternatively, you can use the more expensive Golden Power PX27, but it has less capacity than the solution with the four button cells and is often only available in specialist shops.

You can find all information about batteries and operating instructions here: Minox 35 Battery & Manual Overview

2. The "Automatics" (ML, MB)

From 1985 onwards, the design became a little more angular ("brick shape").

Minox 35 ML: For many, the best model. It offers program mode AND aperture priority. Instead of a needle, there are LEDs in the viewfinder. It also has an "Exposure Lock" - extremely useful in difficult lighting conditions.

Minox 35 MB: Quasi an ML, but without program mode. Only aperture priority.

Advantage of this series: They use the PX28 battery (6V) ex works. Since these are more difficult to find nowadays than standard button cells, you need our PX28 Adapter. This passive adapter serves as a sleeve to use the smaller, cheaper 4LR44 or 4SR44 button cells.

3. The Moderns (GT-E, GT-S, MDC)

At the end of the 80s there was an update under the hood. The lens was now called "MC Minoxar" (multi-coating) and often had a built-in skylight filter.

Minox 35 GT-E (1988): Technically very sophisticated. Close focus distance down to 70cm (instead of 90cm). More robust interior (the GT-S is a modified GT-E with automatic DX Code detection).

Minox 35 MDC: The luxury version of the ML with a titanium anodized aluminum jacket. More for the showcase, but beautiful (also available as a collector's version in gold-plated (see title picture).

Battery note: The models GT-E and GT-S use the PX27 battery like the classics (EL/GL/GT) and therefore also require the PX27 Adapterto use modern 4x LR44/SR44 button cells. The MDC (as an ML derivative) uses the PX28.

Part 2: Buyer's Guide - The Minox Diseases

If you see a used Minox 35 at the flea market or on eBay, you have to check two things. Otherwise you're buying electronic scrap.

The "Click" Test (Shutter)

The biggest problem of the Minox 35 is the shutter. If the camera sits for a long time, the magnets become resinified or the electronics give out.

The test: Insert the battery, cock the film transport, press the shutter. You hear a "click". But: Open the back and look through the lens against the light. Do the blades really open? Often it clicks (the release magnet), but the shutter remains closed. We used to repair this often, but it's fiddly.

Tip for self-repair: For the technically savvy among you who want to venture into cleaning the shutter magnet yourself, we have the link to the video instructions directly here: Youtube Video: Cleaning the shutter magnet.

The ISO Wheel of Death

On many GTs and GLs, the lettering on the ISO wheel on the bottom is simply rubbed off. You no longer know whether you have set ISO 100 or 400. This is annoying, but not a total write-off.

The solution: We manufacture a replacement badge for the ISO wheel, in which the numbers are engraved and not just printed. Stick it on once and you're done.

The lost battery cover

Classic. These things are tiny and missing from 30% of used cameras. No cover, no circuit. No circuit, no release. If yours is missing: We have replacement covers in the program, which are made of conductive filament are printed to ensure electrical contact.

 

Part 3: How to Take Better Pictures (Zone Focus!)

The Minox 35 is not a point and shoot with autofocus (except for the ugly late AF models, which we are not talking about here). It has zone focus.

You have to estimate the distance. Sounds scary? It is not.

• At aperture 8 and a setting of 3 meters, almost everything from 2m to 5m is in focus.
• For landscapes: infinity.
• For street: aperture 8, pre-focus to 3 meters ("Snap-Focus") and simply shoot when the subject is in the zone.

Since the shutter is almost silent, the Minox is the ultimate ninja camera for street photography.

Our conclusion & Vladi's recommendation

Do you still need a Minox 35 today? Yes. There is hardly a camera that delivers so much image quality per cubic centimeter. My best photos were taken with the Minox 35 GT simply because I always had it with me when the big SLR was too heavy.

My recommendation for buyers:

The price-performance winner: The Minox 35 GT. Best balance of features and availability.

The pro tip (upgrades): The Minox 35 GT-E or the MDC. The GT-E offers the best optical and technical upgrades (MC lens, 0.7m close-up limit). The MDC is the only one with titanium-aluminum body – an indestructible collector's item (but expensive!). The ML does offer LEDs in the viewfinder, but is not necessarily better in quality than a well-preserved GT.

If you need accessories to get your flea market find back in shape, feel free to stop by our shop. We specialize in keeping these legends alive.

Good light! Yours, Vladi

Useful links from the article:

• PX27 Battery Adapter (für EL, GL, GT, PL)
• PX28/4LR44 Adapter (für ML, MB)
• ISO-Rad Ersatzplakette
• Ersatz Batteriedeckel
• Filter Adapter (um Filter zu nutzen)
• Gegenlichtblende